How to Lace Your Dress Shoes Correctly

Why Proper Lacing Matters

Lacing might seem like a small detail, but it plays a bigger role than most people realize. The right lacing pattern keeps your shoe snug against the top of your foot, prevents heel slippage, and distributes pressure evenly. When your men's shoes are laced correctly, you get better arch support and reduce the creasing that comes from a loose fit.

There is also an appearance factor. Straight, clean lace lines on a polished Oxford give you a refined look that complements a well-fitted suit. Messy, uneven lacing can make even an expensive shoe look careless. Think of lacing as the finishing touch, similar to choosing the right pocket square or the right tie knot for the occasion.

Different lacing methods also affect how easy it is to put shoes on and take them off. Open-lacing shoes like Derbies are forgiving, while closed-lacing Oxfords need a method that allows enough room to slide your foot in without straining the leather.

Types of Dress Shoe Lacing Patterns

There are two main lacing styles used for dress shoes: straight bar lacing and criss-cross lacing. Each one serves a specific purpose and pairs better with certain shoe types.

← Scroll horizontally to see comparison →

Straight bar lacing (also called parallel lacing) shows only horizontal lines on top of the shoe. All the crossing happens underneath, hidden from view. This creates a sleek, minimalist look that works perfectly on formal Oxfords where the lacing area sits flush against the tongue.

Criss-cross lacing is the standard X-pattern that most people learn as children. The laces cross over each other on top of the shoe, creating a visible zigzag. While less formal than straight bar lacing, criss-cross provides a tighter, more adjustable fit that makes it the better choice for open-lacing shoes like Derbies and brogues.

Step-by-Step Guide: Straight Bar Lacing

Straight bar lacing gives Oxfords and other closed-lacing shoes a polished, clean appearance. This technique works best on shoes with an even number of eyelet pairs (most dress shoes have five or six pairs).

The key to getting straight bar lacing right is keeping even tension on both sides as you work your way up. If one side feels tighter than the other, go back and adjust before tying. The result should show perfectly parallel horizontal bars with no visible diagonal lines.

Step-by-Step Guide: Criss-Cross Lacing

Criss-cross lacing is the go-to method for Derby shoes, brogues, and any shoe with an open-lacing system. The visible X-pattern provides a secure, adjustable fit and looks natural on shoes where the eyelet flaps sit on top of the vamp.

One common mistake with criss-cross lacing is starting by going under the first eyelet instead of over. When you start by threading down through the top of the bottom eyelets, the first visible cross sits flat and tight against the shoe. Starting from underneath creates a gap at the base that looks sloppy.

How to Lace Oxfords vs. Derbies

The difference between Oxford and Derby shoes goes beyond style. Their construction determines which lacing pattern will look and perform best.

Oxfords have a closed-lacing system, meaning the eyelet flaps (called facings) are stitched under the vamp. When the shoe is laced, the facings should sit close together with a narrow V-shaped gap or nearly touching. This design calls for straight bar lacing, which keeps the lace pattern tight and clean within that narrow space.

Derbies have an open-lacing system where the facings are stitched on top of the vamp. This gives you much more room to open the shoe wide for easy entry, and the visible flaps naturally accommodate the X-pattern of criss-cross lacing. Using straight bar lacing on Derbies is possible but tends to look too minimal for the shoe's construction.

← Scroll horizontally to see comparison →

If you have wider feet or a higher instep, Derby shoes with criss-cross lacing will give you the most comfortable fit since you can adjust each cross individually. For narrower feet in formal settings, Oxfords with straight bar lacing create a sleek, body-hugging silhouette that pairs perfectly with your suits and tailored trousers.

Lacing Tips for Comfort & Fit

Getting the lacing pattern right is just the beginning. How tightly you lace, where you adjust, and how you handle the laces over time all play a role in comfort.

Comfort also depends on the laces themselves. Round laces work better for dress shoes because they slide through eyelets more smoothly and hold tension evenly. Flat laces are fine for casual shoes but tend to bunch up in the smaller eyelets of dress footwear. Quality cotton or waxed cotton laces keep their shape and don't come untied as easily as synthetic options.

Lacing Styles to Avoid

Not every lacing method works for dress shoes. Some patterns that look creative on sneakers will make your men's shoes look out of place in professional settings.

← Scroll horizontally to see full guide →

Ladder lacing, display lacing, and other decorative techniques are designed for sneakers and boots. On a dress shoe, they look forced and draw attention away from the shoe's craftsmanship. The goal with dress shoe lacing is simplicity. You want the leather, the stitching, and the shape of the shoe to do the talking, not a fancy lace pattern.

Another mistake to watch for is leaving your shoes permanently laced tight so you can step in and out without untying them. This stretches the heel counter, warps the shape of the shoe over time, and leads to creasing around the eyelets. Take the extra 30 seconds to untie, loosen, and retie your shoes properly each time you wear them.

Can you use waxed laces?

Should laces match shoe color?

How often should you replace dress shoe laces?